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Even though
our Metallic Surfacers look and apply just like
any water-based acrylic paint, they are very different
in that they contain real metal not pigment or the
mica flakes commonly used in other “metallic
paints”. Rather, they are an ingenious blend
of finely ground metal flakes (copper, bronze, iron,
steel, aluminum) in an acrylic binder that creates
the look and durability of a true metal surface.
Once coated with our Iron Metallic Surfacer for
example a magnet will stick to the “painted”
surface. They are all suitable for both interior
and exterior use. The Iron, Copper, Bronze and Gold
Metallic Surfacers are reactive. That is they can
be oxidized with one of Antiquing Solutions to develop
a rust or patina finish.
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Metallic
Surfacers can be applied to virtually any paintable
surface, including wood, masonry, plaster, metal,
cloth, canvas, paper, plastic, glass, etc. If you
can paint it, you can successfully apply a Metallic
Surfacer to it. As with any “painting”
project proper surface preparation is 80% of having
a successful outcome so make sure the surface is
clean, dry and free of grease, oil or loose material
from previous paint applications. Some surfaces
such as aluminum or galvanized metal may require
special surface preparation or primers specifically
formulated for these materials.
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Metallic Surfaces have excellent adhesion and priming
is not necessary in many cases if the surface is
in good condition and presents no unusual adhesion
challenges. Highly absorbent surfaces such as concrete
or plaster, if primed will absorb less of the Metallic
Surfacer, but technically do not need to be primed.
Surfaces such as glass or plastic that are very
slippery should always be primed. Some surfaces
such as aluminum or galvanized metal may require
special surface preparation or primers specifically
formulated for these materials. If you are planning
to use one of our Antiquing Solutions on a Metallic
Surfacer that is being applied to Iron or Steel
the surface must be primed with a high quality rust
inhibiting primer first. The Antiquing Solutions
can work their way down through the Metallic Surfacer
and reach the iron or steel and produce rust that
will erupt through the surface. If using a solvent
base primer allow 24 to 48 hours of cure time before
coating with the Metallic Surfacer.
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The Antiquing
Solutions work by oxidizing the zinc that is found
in these metals and is formulated for the percentage
of zinc content in our Metallic Surfacers. In solid
copper, brass or bronze surfaces the zinc content
varies greatly and in some cases the Antiquing Solution
“burns” the surface brown rather then
slowly oxidizing into the desired green or blue
patina. The solution to this problem is to re-clean
the surface and apply a diluted version of the Antiquing
Solution. You may have to dilute the solution by
as much as 50% to 75% to find the correct strength.
In some cases substituting our Rust Antiquing Solution
proves to be a more reliable approach.
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The Patina
Antiquing Solution is a mild acid that triggers
and speeds up the natural oxidation of the metal.
This process requires the metal to be clean and
free of all protective coatings, grease, grime,
fingerprints or any other substance that will prevent
the acid from entering the pours of the metal and
triggering the oxidation. When no color change after
the Antiquing Solution has been applied takes place
the surface needs to be cleaned or a protective
coating removed. For general grease and grime you
may use any commercial metal cleaner or a mild solution
of TSP gently applied with 0000 steel wool or a
Scotch Brite Pad. If some type of lacquer finish
has been applied you may have to use a paint remover
or solvent to remove the finish. Some copper and
brass objects have a baked on permanent type finish
that cannot be removed. If the Patina Antiquing
Solution is coming in contact with the metal it
is virtually impossible for no chemical reaction
to occur so when no change at all takes place cleaning
or removing what ever is preventing the interaction
between the solution and the metal surface should
solve the problem.
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In order
for the Patina Antiquing Solutions to oxidize the
metal in Metallic Surfacers the final coat of Metallic
Surfacer must still be slightly wet to the touch.
Once fully dry the acrylic binder seals off the
metal flakes and the Patina Antiquing Solution will
have little to no effect. Typically you have from
10 to 20 minutes of open time to apply the Patina
Antiquing Solution but this will vary with temperature
and how absorbent the surface is. On large project
you should work in small segments or apply the Patina
Antiquing Solution as you paint. A simple way to
paint and antique large surfaces is to apply the
Metallic Surfacer with one hand and the Patina Antiquing
Solution with the other as you move along the project.
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Unlike
the Patina Solutions the Rust Antiquing Solution
is applied to the Iron Metallic Surfacer after the
surface has dried, typically 8 to 10 hours. Apply
the Rust Antiquing Solution to the still wet Iron
Metallic Surfacers usually results in no color change
and letting the Iron Metallic Surfacer “cure”
beyond the recommended 8 to 10 hours also usually
results in no color change. The other most frequent
reason for no color change is that not enough of
the Iron Metallic Surfacer was applied. We suggest
at least two thick coats and that the liquid be
fully stirred to ensure that the chunks of iron
a fully integrated into the paint.
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The metal
surface must be clean and free of all dirt, grime,
protective coatings and in the case of iron any
mill scale. Wrought iron in particular usually has
been painted and the Rust Antiquing Solution will
not work on a surface with any sort of paint or
sealer on it. The Rust Antiquing Solution is a mild
acid that triggers the oxidation of the iron into
rust and provided that it properly comes in contact
with iron or steel will always trigger some type
of color change.
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The patina
that develops is the result of a very organic process.
The color is influenced by a wide range of environmental
conditions including; temperature, humidity and
air quality. The color is also influenced by the
amount of solution being applied and the method
of application. Spraying or misting the solution
on for example seems to slightly alter the ph of
the acid and can impact the color. The source and
age of the metal also influences the patina color.
In short, it is virtually impossible to predictably
obtain or consistently obtain any specific shade
of patina. When consistent color is wanted we recommend
you treat all parts of the project in the same manner
and time frame as possible.
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The typical
rust finish that develops following our standard
instructions is usually a light to dark brown. Sometimes
a yellow or orange type look will result. The rust
finish that develops is the result of a very organic
process. The color is influenced by a wide range
of environmental conditions including; temperature,
humidity and air quality. The color is also influenced
by the amount of Iron Metallic Surfacer and the
amount of Rust Antiquing Solution applied and the
method of application. Spraying or misting the solution
on for example seems to slightly alter the ph of
the acid and can impact the color. In short, it
is virtually impossible to predictably obtain or
consistently obtain any specific shade of rust.
When consistent color is wanted we recommend you
treat all parts of the project in the same manner
and time frame as possible. What in general we find
is that if you apply the Rust Antiquing Solution
to the Iron Metallic Surfacer sooner then the suggest
8 to 10 hours after applying the Iron Metallic Surfacer
the more likely you be to get the yellow or orange
color. We suggest you make a test board with multiple
small test areas of the Iron Metallic Surfacers
and apply the Rust Antiquing Solution at timed intervals
to see if you can find a dry time that produces
the color you desire.
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The Metallic
Surfacers are totally weatherproof and exterior
grade and do not have to be sealed. We suggest sealing
if the finished surface is going to be subjected
to frequent handling or contact or if extreme weather
conditions are going to present. The Patina and
Rust Finishes are also weather proof but you will
experience rain run-off from them that can stain
surrounding surfaces. You can seal the Patina finishes
with our Clear Sealer or any high quality acrylic
or solvent-based sealer (do not seal with a urethane
or polyurethane sealer). You will see some modest
change in appearance and testing the final look
is always recommended. Sealing a rust finish will
more dramatically alter the natural look of the
finish and can change the appearance in what most
feel is a very negative way. All sealers will impact
the look of a rust finish to some extent but a very
fine automotive grade solvent-based sealer seems
to work the best. With both the Patina and Rust
finishes you are trying to seal what is by definition
an unstable and difficult surface. The most effective
sealer solution we have found for those the most
durable and stain-preventing sealer is to apply
a two-part epoxy sealer. These are quite expensive
and will change the appearance even more dramatically
but are most effective at overcoming the problem
of trying to adhere a sealer to the loose and powdery
surface.
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Yes all
of the Metallic Surfacers are compatible and can
be mixed together. In fact, any high quality acrylic
paint can be mixed with the Metallic Surfacers.
Mixing the paints can alter the reactive nature
of the coatings and change the color and patina
finish that develops when an Antiquing Solution
is applied. A favorite look is to apply a thick
coat of Iron Metallic Surfacer and the “scrunch”
other Metallic Surfacers such as Copper or Bronze
into the iron surface. When you then apply one of
the Antiquing Solutions the Iron will rust and the
Copper or Bronze will turn green or blue creating
a multi-color look.
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The Antiquing
Solutions are a mild acid and can cause irritation
to the skin and eyes. In general they are considered
consumer friendly and carry no special restrictions
and require no special safety precautions other
then the normal effort to keep the liquid out of
the eyes and to avoid prolonged skin exposure. We
do suggest that if you are spraying the Antiquing
Solutions that you wear a mask to avoid breathing
the vapors. The Patina that forms from the result
of this process also contains salts and materials
that you do not want to breath or come in contact
with food. Rain run off in particular can lead to
contamination of fish- ponds if a treated statute
or object is placed near a pond or fountain. Any
patina finish used on a kitchen surface should be
sealed.
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